Gulf of Alaska Coastal Travel Routes

Things to know before you go

The following observations are for general information only—they are not be used for navigation.

Descriptions of suitability for passage and anchoring pertain to normal summer weather conditions only. In other seasons wind patterns are different and winds are generally stronger and more frequent, and in winter icing occurs.

It is essential to carry and know how to use paper charts in addition to electronic navigation instruments. A tide book with conversion tables is also necessary, and a NOAA tidal current tables publication can be very helpful.

Icy Bay Lodge
Icy Bay Lodge, on Moraine Bay

The United States Coast Pilot, Book 9, published by the National Ocean Service of NOAA and available as a free download, provides much more detailed descriptions of features, anchorages, and hazards. The area south of Cape Spencer is found in Book 8.

As with both electronic and paper charts, don’t rely on external sources such as the Coast Pilot for specific details of your location. Keep a careful watch, looking especially for kelp beds, foam and swirls indicating wash or submerged rocks, and patterns in the water surface that reveal information about currents. Monitor your depth sounder constantly when near shore and especially in bays, straits, and coves, and even within a couple of miles of the beach where the forelands are low and gradually sloping.

Many parts of the Gulf of Alaska coast were affected by the 1964 Alaska earthquake and later post-seismic crustal rebound which reduced water depths by as much as 2 fathoms. NOAA charts published in 1999 and later reflected changes in charted depths at the time but mariners are cautioned to be aware that charted depths are not always accurate.

a glacier from a mountain to the sea
Lituya Glacier on the north arm of Lituya Bay.

Check marine radio weather forecasts at least twice daily and be prepared to alter plans in response to changes in weather predictions. Marine weather channels (WX1 to 10 on VHF) are unavailable on many parts of this coast. Be sure to carry an HF-SSB marine radio or at least an AM broadcast band radio to pick up marine forecasts from towns along the coast. FM broadcast band radio reception in most cases is limited to a short radius around towns.

Likewise, VHF contact with the Coast Guard is limited to nonexistent on much of this coast, and there is essentially no cell phone coverage except in a few areas where telephone company high sites have extended range. HF-SSB radio (4125 mHz is the de facto emergency and calling frequency) is the best method for contacting the Coast Guard, but if one is unavailable a satellite phone allows calling the Coast Guard rescue coordination center. Program in or mark the number on the phone.

A properly registered 406 EPIRB is essential, along with immersion suits for each crewmember and other required and recommended safety and survival equipment.


Red Mountain near Rocky Bay

Distances noted in this text are expressed in nautical miles and depths in fathoms, in keeping with nautical chart and Coast Pilot standards.

These estimates are for vessels that average 5–8 knots; large displacement boats and planing speedboats can reduce travel time proportionately. But higher speed on the water produces harsher motion in the boat, and a few hours of pounding through a steep chop can be taxing and even abusive to skipper and crew. Remember that a small planing boat capable of 25–30 knots on flat water may be reduced to 15 in an ocean swell and as little as 5 or 6 knots if the seas get rough. Also, a planing hull running slowly is very inefficient so be sure to calculate fuel demand and carry plenty of fuel. If you plan to make a voyage in a small planing boat, be sure to get some open sea experience with it in a variety of wind and tide conditions before heading to remote parts of the coast. For each daily leg of the trip be sure to have a Plan B in case sea conditions reduce travel speed.