Aptly named Beauty Bay is marked by a large ghost forest on the flats between Nuka River and Ferrum Creek
The Pye Islands group consists of three rugged and timbered islands—Ragged, Rabbit, and Outer—and a few outlying rocks that are essentially the southern end of the unnamed peninsula which separates Harris Bay and the open Gulf of Alaska from Nuka Bay and McCarty Fiord. MacArthur Pass, Wildcat Pass, and Kitten Pass separate the three islands. A Steller sea lion rookery is on the south shore of Outer Island, so the entire island is surrounded by a 3 nm no-transit zone. This precludes use of Kitten Pass and Wildcat Pass so vessels taking the shorter and more protected inside route use McArthur Pass. Though it is narrow (120 yards with a clear channel of 60 yards at the narrowest point), shallow (5 fathoms), and has rocks and kelp on both the north and south sides, the pass is pretty straightforward. Tides are reported to run at 3-4 knots, and the Coast Pilot warns of tide rips at the east entrance on the ebb with east weather. Miller lists the following locations in the Pye Islands as having grounds suitable to anchoring: Roaring Cove, Funnel Cove, MacArthur Cove, Morning Cove, Hoof Bight, and Wildcat Cove, and he lists Morning and MacArthur as the most secure.
The face of McCarty Glacier
To visit McCarty Fiord requires a 40 mile round-trip diversion from the main transit corridor but voyagers may find it worthwhile. It contains delightful beaches, lagoons, lakes, trails, and cabins, as well as the dramatically retreated McCarty Glacier. Brash ice chunks, sea otters, and harbor seals are abundant close to the face of the glacier. It surely is the least visited tidewater glacier in the Kenai Fjords. There are fair-weather anchorages at Square Bay, Moonlight Bay, and Midnight Cove, off McCarty Lagoon and in James Lagoon, as well as in a couple of unnamed small bights. Midnight Cove is a narrow and very scenic fjord and on the chart looks like the most secure anchorage, but the bottom is not great holding ground and the cove is a blowhole in southeast storms. Beware of a wash rock on the northwest side of the entrance. The southeast quadrant of Moonlight Bay affords better holding ground and reportedly less severe wind patterns.
Natural currents or wave action arranged these flat stones into an unusual pattern on a Nuka Bay beach
Nuka Bay is bounded on the east by the Pye Islands and on the west by Nuka Island, and the north end is separated from McCarthy Fiord by the peninsula that terminates at Harrington Point. Extending to the north is the 7 mile long West Arm, which turns right to become the 5 mile long North Arm. Several scenic bays with anchorages branch off of West Arm and North Arm. On an east-to-west loop around the two arms, the first indentation with potential anchorage is Ariadne Cove, which the Coast Pilot describes as having a small anchorage in its center in 5-10 fathoms that is tenable if local winds are not too strong. It can be entered from either the north or west but it’s important to study the chart carefully to avoid rocks lining both passages.
Most of the coastline of West Arm Nuka Bay, including Surprise, Quartz, North Arm, Beauty Bay, and Yalik Bay, is owned by the Port Graham Corporation or individual Native allotment holders.
This aerial tram cable and bucket are remnants of a mine once located on the north shore of Surprise Bay
The next bay to the north, Surprise Bay, is most significant for its very scenic Palisade Lagoon, entered via a very narrow channel through steep mountainsides at the head of the bay. Stay to the right side while entering the narrows and veer to the left side after reaching the narrowest point to avoid rocks and shoals. The 18 fathom depth shallows abruptly at the head of the lagoon, providing some anchoring ground for small vessels without anchor winches. A trail at the head leads up the valley, eventually to an abandoned mine site. On a narrow shelf on the west side of Surprise Bay it is still possible to see buildings and an aerial tram that supplied another mine.
The next inlet to the north is Quartz Bay, named for the extensive quartz veins that attracted gold miners to the area. Access is to the north of Beautiful Isle, with care taken to avoid the reef that extends from the north shore to the middle of the bay. A rock covered at 6 feet lies just beyond the south end of that reef, in just about the middle of the bay. There is anchorage near the northeast head of the bay if caution is applied to avoid the extensive tidal flat that extends out from the east end. Quartz Bay is open to the west and is not a good anchorage in strong west winds.
Kvasnikoff Falls plunges 900 feet near the head of North Arm
The next indentation, proceeding north, is known locally as PUC Cove and has a National Park Service public use cabin. Next is Pilot Harbor, which Miller describes as the most secure anchorage in Nuka Bay. An extensive shoal in the northeast corner and deeper water toward the middle of the cove are suitable. Study the chart carefully for hazards when entering the cove. The head of North Arm is an extensive and exposed outwash plain for several small creeks. To the west a small bight, unnamed on the chart but known locally as Falls Cove, offers little protection but does provide a spectacular view of the 900 foot high cataract known as Kvasnikoff Falls.
Beauty Bay
A ghost forest at Shelter Cove
Now angling southwest, the next inlet is the aptly named Beauty Bay. Several channels of the Nuka River and Ferrum Creek enter the head of the bay via a tideflat that extends nearly half its length, leaving little anchoring ground in less than 25 fathoms. The best location is in the northwest corner off the mouth of Ferrum Creek. The tideflat is backed by low ground supporting an extensive ghost forest of trees that were killed when their roots were submerged in saltwater due to subsidence caused by the 1964 earthquake. These ghost forests are found throughout the region, mainly at low-lying river mouths, but the one at Beauty Bay is among the largest and most dramatic. Salmon run in the Nuka River and harbor seals venture far up the channels through the tideflats in pursuit of them. A cove in the southwest corner called Shelter Cove offers better anchorage in 5-12 fathoms. The northern third of the cove goes dry at low water, so watch the depth meter closely. Wind coming down the Nuka River valley can blow right into Shelter Cove, but in the common west or southwest wind conditions of summer Shelter Cove is comfortable. The valley affords good walking and the stream supports a run of chum salmon in summer. The valleys are reported to have long-abandoned roads and even a railroad that once served mines in the Nuka and Shelter Cove valleys.
On the west side of the entrance to North Arm, opposite Harrington Point, is Yalik Bay. Miller reports that it was once one of the most important Sugpiaq Eskimo locations on the Kenai Coast, and the land around it is owned by Port Graham Corporation. A small bight on the north side near the entrance provides anchorage in suitable weather but is exposed to the ocean and west winds develop considerable ferocity coming down Yalik; the very head of the bay is suitable for anchoring in other than east wind, in mild conditions. A trail is reported to provide a route over the ridge to allow a view of the Yalik Glacier, but this author was unable to locate it.
Islet Basin features several attractive pocket beaches
The route west from Yalik Bay involves traveling a few miles south to, and then west through, Nuka Passage. On the north side, about halfway through the pass, lies a peninsula and a cluster of small islands known locally as Islet Basin, which features sheltered anchorages and cheery pocket beaches suitable for landing and camping. A few culturally modified trees may be found in the woods behind the beaches. In the middle of the west end of Nuka Passage lies Division Island. Most vessels pass to the south of the island, taking care to avoid rocks lying southwest of the island across from Hardover Point.
Weather: WX2 but inconsistent reception